Merry Christmas!!!

Dear fellow Bloggers and Readers,

I wish all of you a great Christmas and a most fantastic New Year. Let's hope that Santa brings many watches to you all...

P.S. I will be slowing the rate of posts here until the holiday season is over. My family and friends will be getting the most of my attention this holiday season.

Mirror mirror on the wall, who's the RAREST of them all..?

With the speculative bubble around the 3712 many expected that the 5712 would cause this bubble to burst. Well it did... not! It only deflated slightly. lately it seems that its price is rising again. Many hoped that the price of the 3712 would drop, to either get one for themselves or have greedy speculators and gray market merchants bite the dust. Sorry, not this time. I guest that the Moonphase Nautty will not be a bargain just yet. Yes, unbelievably the older 3712 trades at higher prices than the new 5712!

How can this be? It has been several weeks now that I have been dwelling on the answer to this mystery. At first, I attempted to put logic into an otherwise "illogical" equation. The 3712 is the rarest of all Nautilus references, ever (I am dying to find out how many were really made). It was discontinued only 6 months after being presented in Basel, about the same time when it started to reach retailers. The other reason could be the slight modification of the dial. The slightly larger and redesigned date print had a casualty, one of the smaller markers at 7 o'clock. It might not be something significant at first but for those whose focus is on detail (which incidentally are most Patek fans) this is a let down. It almost looks like a sloppy way to cut cost and much less a way to make the date a little bit more readable.

... then a few days ago I might have gotten the answer. Initially when comparing both side by side I could not comprehend why the 3712 is still so highly appreciated. It just made no sense! First I must say that the rounded hinges of the new 5712 are an absolute improvement over the older models. It gives the new Nautty a more "modern" feeling, more in touch with the times. But when examined in detail this is where the improvements end. The dial difference is negligible, if you are not a "psycho" and are not made aware of the removal of the 7 o'clock marker you will not notice that minor change. When I held both in each hand... something did not feel right. The 5712 was thicker, and the back looked... bulky? Although on paper the difference should be negligible the new case construction accentuates the thickness. That's not good. It felt sloppy. What is unforgivable is that the thicker 5712 does not improve the 60 meter water resistance of the 3712, which is one of its weaknesses.

What absolutely killed me is when I decided to put both into the hands of a lady that just happened to be shopping for her husbands Christmas present. I usually like to ask people that are not so much into watches in order to get an honest answer. This also helps me bypass my personal bias as much as possible. Well, back to our subject... she held them and her first reaction was that they where both the same. The 5712 looked better... but wait! It also feels cheaper... ouch! That "remark" really killed me. She thought that the sales person and I where testing her to see if she could make the difference between a real Patek and a really good copy. The 3712 felt thiner and more authentic, when the back of the 5712 felt a bit more... "Seikoish"? I did not necessarily agree with that assessment but it gave me something to think about. Tastes are a personal matter, I love the 3712/5712 and she did not like the Nautties to begin with. I respect her opinion since not long ago I was not a Nautty fan either. Please bear in mind that I am not putting in question the quality or the improvement of the case of the 5712 over the 3712. I am almost certain that the improvement of the new Nautilus cases are way ahead of the older models the 3712 included. Thinking otherwise would just make no sense to me. Please take these remarks only as superficial assessments.

So what will happen now? How much will the price of the 3712 keep rising? Will it reach a maximum soon? Don't know. What I know is that the 3712 is on its way of becoming to Patek what the Daytona "Paul Newman" is to Rolex. Prices will keep rising, because the moment Patek collectors put their hands on the 3712 for their collection it will hardly go anywhere anymore. The 3712 will become harder and harder to come by over the years. Darn!

The market has spoken.

AP buys part of RM?

One of the biggest pending issues for RM customers was the longevity of the brand over an extended period of time. Many people where a bit "twitchy" to spend 30k on a relatively new brand. The concern was that if RM would eventually disappear there would be nobody to service your RM properly. Now, this concern is less than before. Rumor has it that AP has recently purchased a chunk of RM. Depending on the size of the purchase, this not only would ensure the longevity but give RM access to AP's distribution network overnight. Especially interesting are markets where RM was not present, and had no plans to be there anytime soon. What is uncertain is what will happen to the existing importers. I guest that for AP to get them out of the picture they would need a bigger chunk of RM, pry them out of their cold dead hands or come to a sizable monetary agreement with them. Unless AP would buy 51% of RM this would, of course, be impossible.

I am not certain that this is good news for everybody. What I am sure that this is not bad news either. I guess that having a strong partner sets many minds at easy in the RM camp and AP insures a source of imagination that has been very successful in recent years. I am still "digesting" the news so I don't have an opinion yet. To be honest, the size of the share acquired by AP will determine their strength in RM. Anything around or up to 10% will be merely anecdotal.

More details to come soon...


Back in 1972 many laughed in disbelieve as AP presented their idea of what a new sports watch should be. Gerald Genta's creation was to most critics weird, awkward, way too expensive, way too large, had too many edges, etc... Look at the Oak today. I must admit that while I fall in and out of love with many watches all the time, the Jumbo is something special.

If I were to give specific reasons as to why I revere the Jumbo so much... this would be the list:

- It opened an era. The sport watch "theme" had until then not been addressed by the high-end guys like Patek and Vacheron.
- It is by far the most versatile watch I own. It looks good with a tuxedo, a suit, a casual shirt, a polo shirt and a bathing suit.
- It's only understood by few. If you spot somebody else with a Jumbo you know he knows his watches.
- It's very comfortable and light. Because it is so thin, it is a joy to wear.
- It's inconspicuous. Unless spotted by a connoisseur it will attract very little attention.
- Its proportions are very well balanced. In fact they are so well conceived that they have remained unchanged in now 34 years.
- It's the only thing that I know (car, building, fashion, etc...) designed in the 70's that is beautiful and still made today. Apart from a sapphire back and a more evolved clasp it's the same watch.
- With the 2121 calibre in its guts you own a piece of horological history. Many consider the 2121 calibre the 12 cylinder engine of the industry.
- It DOES NOT have a seconds hand. It has thought, the most essential things on a watch; hours, minutes and the date.

Once its success started to be apparent many have asked Genta to design them an Oak as well. Genta's creations for Patek, Vacheron, IWC and Girard-Perregaux shared some success yet nothing close to the original Royal Oak. Patek's Nautilus could be a contender yet their production limitations don't really make them a threat. In order to really compete you must have items in stock and on display. Right now the Nautilus, especially the larger models, are in much larger demand than their actual production. You can't just go to your round-the-corner Patek dealer and buy one. The other three are just dragging their feet...

p.s. Some time ago AP made this skeletonized Jumbo and it has not really done a lot of "noise" since then. Weird, it is a beautiful piece of equipment. I had the chance to hold the nº1 and believe me, it's a beauty. It is a bit thiner than the Jumbo since it holds the 2120 calibre. The 2120 is the variant of the 2121 calibre but without the date. This makes the case about one millimeter thiner.

Audemars Piguet...

Golden Age?

It has never been so apparent that where are currently in a "golden age" of watch making. Never has there been so many complications at such prices and, what's more important, so many people willing to spend money to buy them. Pieces like the AMVOX2, Squadra, PK Chrono, Panerai Foudroayante, Genta Biretro... where unthinkable only ten years ago at these prices. Back then, only a few manufactures where capable of such developments. Ratrapantes, 8-day power reserves, retrogrades, vertical triggers, jumping hours and large dates are becoming quite common and more affordable than at any time in history. Even the Tourbillon's exclusivity has been challenged by Jaeger's "Master Tourbillon" (about time if you ask me). New companies like Richard Mille, URWERK, Hautlence are proposing new radical designs and thrive. That inspire of being priced at what was not long ago considered insane price points. Consider the "infamous" RM004v2, backordered to the end of time at a whopping 130,000 Dollars! Insane. This used to happen with the infamous Rolex "Daytona", yet at a price point one tenth that of the RM. But for a watch that costs 130k?!?

Another factor is the "spending threshold" on watches that has been continuously overrun in the last few years. Never have there been more people willing to spend obnoxious amounts of money for a watch. Almost any brand can make (at least commission) a Tourbillon and sell it! That, in some cases, is a mystery to me. Have we gone mad? Or is it that the choice has become so wast that it has become much more appealing to us all? The survey that Velociphile once took in his blog comes to one surprising conclusion; most of us blatantly lie to our spouses/relations/family about the watches that we own. Not only about the number of watches we own but what they really cost. I am certain that most of us can identify with this. When is the last time that you heard from your girlfriend/wife say; "... yes honey, you should really buy this beautifull watch." I would bet my underwear that the last time you told "her" that you where "considering" the purchase of a watch, at any price I might add, the response you got was closer to; "... What!?! Another one??? Are you going to grow extra arms to wear them all?..." And that would be the light version.

Disregarding your income evolution over the last ten years, would you ever have considered buying... sorry, spending that much money for your last watch? I sure as hell though that anybody spending that much money had something seriously wrong with him. Since then I have surpassed that line, tenfold. What about you?


Lovely... really lovely. A while back I mentioned that regardless what Patek make, they will sell it. I said that even if they where to make "an old lady's hat with a coo-coo clock" people will flock by the thousands to buy it. Well, grandma's here...

Personally I own several Pateks and love many others that I will never own or be able to own. I say this not to brag, but to illustrate that I would not want to give the impression that I am one of those that criticize just because they can't get the chance to own one. I also must admit that I am much harsher on the watches I own and the brands I like. You would not see me comment on watches like Jacob & CO for instance, its just is a waste of time.

Now, back to this piece: Recently, the boys at Patek have just graced us with the first Patek whose box is nicer than its actual content. Limited to 300 units (I hate to repeat myself, but calling 300 Pateks Limited is a big leap of faith), here goes a boooring Calatrava in steel and with a size of 36 mm. I suspect it will not be a big head turner. Honestly, this thing looks like one of those Chinese counterfeit models. You know, one of these "own" creations that isn't really in Patek's catalogue yet they slap "Patek" on the face. This thing looks closer to a Limes or Davosa for less than 1,000 bucks (and there is nothing wrong with them, they charge a more than honest price for their watches). Special would have been 42 mm, the crown on the left side and a kevlar strap. A bit extravagant for a Patek... granted, but definitely more interesting than this... yawn... thing. I guess the day they conceived this watch, imagination was not in the menu.

Ahhh... almost forgot. It is waterproof to a "staggering" 30 meters. Wow, in the real world that is barely bathtub proof. Quite a performance for the year 1906. Wait! Forgot we are in 2006... sorry.

... and two more things;

ONE. If you are one of those idiots that when told the waterproof rating of a watch say; "... I don't plan to go that deep, har har har...". Stop reading this Blog, and don't come back... ever!
TWO. If you by chance you are one of the above, and own a watch that is waterproof to 30 meters, please go snorkeling with it. In am sure you are more than safe, har har har...

Sometimes I wonder how objective I am about the Pateks I like when I see that many other models are simply do not live up to their name. Lately I have the felling that the brand "Patek Philippe" is what constitutes a large part of the attractive of their products. If I where a true "purist", which I am not, I doubt I would accept a Lemania movement in my Patek. Several of their "flagship" watches (ironically the ones in biggest demand) are not "purebred" Pateks. Personally, I don't mind. I still think that many of these are great watches. However, the price point of these specific watches is a bit excessive considering what they really are. I can't help but feel that in some cases they are taking a free ride on their prestige. Nothing wrong with that, but nobody should take their customers for granted.

P.S. I know that I am going to get a lot of heat on this piece... but bring it on, this is what this blog is all about. If you respond please add your name or screen name to avoid confusion. Last time there was some debate and everybody was called "anonymous"... maybe it was just the same guy. ;-D

Dornblueth "99.2"

Few can give you more for your money than Dornblueth. Still a small watchmaker obsessed with quality and finishing, Dornblueth is getting to be very appreciated by collectors and watch enthusiast around the world. They take order directly and until now there are no shops anywhere. There is one exception though, UHREN in Madrid are the only store where you can go a buy a Dorning. Did I say buy? Sorry, I meant get in line. Backordered to about 6 months, this small manufacture is quite a bargain. Very appreciated amongst the connoisseur, Dornblueth is with F.P. Journe the only watchmaker to make all his movements in 18k rose gold. You can even order the seconds hack option or your initials engraved on the movement. Since they are all hand made special requests are not an obstacle, provided they are within reason of course...

My personal favorite is the 99.2 and judging from the waiting list I am not the only one! If you jump on this baby, ask for the "hack upgrade". As pictured on the right, the hack option makes the seconds hand jump to the closest quarter once you pull the crown to set the time. It's not that much and quite useful if you are a precision nut.

PRICE E.U: 4,900 € aprox.
PRICE U.S: 6,000 $ aprox.

Dornblueth & Sohn...

WEMPE "Chronometerwerke"

Usually when a watch has the name and logo of the Jeweler I look away. It was very common once for Jewelers to commission important pieces to Patek or Audemars with their brand on them. That was a long time ago. Then came the dark ages... and they commissioned crap generally put together in the far east. That was until now. The first to retake the idea and commission high-end stuff and brand it personally (not forgetting who did the piece) was Harry Winston. Particularly interesting where pieces like the Opus V by URWERK. However the damage made during decades of selling cheap branded products is done. It will take prestigious Jewelers the same years that they have spent selling these horrors to recuperate the image of their watch section.

Same is true about Cartier's "Private Collection". They are quite some extraordinary pieces yet the brand is not very appealing to the general proficient watch lover. Their "special" pieces are not to be taken lightly. Unfortunately, they will need many years to put this "spacial branch" back to where if used to be a long, long time ago. Even though I like several of these pieces I just can't bring myself to buy a Cartier.

Recently Wempe has just introduced and opened their own "little" watch manufacture. Their first models are quite impressive, in spite of the fact that they have just started. Hell, there many old boys out there that to this day don't get such good results. Particularly interesting is their "Tonneau" shaped model. If you like the shape but could do without the risk of getting a Poljot movement even if the dial says "swiss made" the the new Wempe is the way to go. The finishing is impeccable and the movement is a beauty. What would be interesting is to see their next model with an 8-day power reserve and a slightly larger case.

Whether Wempe will become an appealing brand, that remains to be seen. What is certain is that they have a lot of work ahead of them. Let's wait and see...

WEMPE Manufacture...

A sucker born every minute...

You must be kidding!?! The boys at B&R just graced us with this limited edition for a mere 2,300 €. This wannabe vintage manual bicompax is an ETA based, acrylic glass, automatic ROBERY. There should be a law against this.

You like this? Then take a look a the SINN 103. It gives you much more stuff for merely 700... yes 700 Euros. Ah, and for an extra 300 bucks you can upgrade it with a safire crystal. the same upgrade in the B&R is 700€. Pathetic...

I wonder if all the other stuff by Bell & Ross is so "aggressively" priced.

OffShore "Safari"

Since its initial introduction the Safari has caused quite some watch lovers to turn their heads. It is one of these watches that everybody likes for no real apparent reason apart from the a whole design. Whether it is the cream dial, dark blue numerals of the extraordinary crocodile strap it is difficult to single out one characteristic trait that makes it so attractive to most people. AP have scored a bulls-eye with this piece, and the market has spoken. Depending on the country, this OffShore has a waiting list of between 3 to 9 months.

Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful OffShores ever to leave the factory at LeBrassus.

Audemars Piguet...

Hautlence "HL"

Just had the first contact with real a production Hautlence. Must admit I am quiet impressed, with the watch and with the future of the brand. Guillaume Tetu was so kind as to explain the philosophy and more important, their project. As to where they want to take Hautlence I am certain that if they stick to the plan they will take their venture quite far. There are few occasions when I agree more as to watch making strategy. The HL for instance will be produced only 88 times in each version. The next project will not be with that "TV shape" case. The idea is that Hautlence do not want to be identified with a particular shape. Good move if you ask me.

Although the price is a bit steep (35,000 €) the finishing is well within the expected. Its design elements are very interesting and will make this watch interesting to you for quite some time. Even thought the shape is not my favorite the HL looks much better ON the wrist that OFF the wrist. The TV shaped case, which I thought was a disadvantage, becomes more understandable once you examine the watch more closely. The movement is the one "forcing" the case shape of the watch, it is not an element of style.

Like many watches and especially with this one you have to see it in the flesh to properly make your self an opinion. If you get the chance take a look, even if you are not in the market for something like that it is an interesting piece nonetheless.


KALPA "Chiaroscuro"

More and more manufacturers are taking care of the backs as much as the front of their watches. like Lange's "Double Split" your reaction is; nice, yawn... Then, you turn it around and your heart goes racing. This Parmigiani's rear is just a hole new ball game.

A truly breathtaking finish and movement design. However, I wish it where not that expensive, it where not a Tourbillon and there where more than 30. Is that too much to ask? If Parmigiani had the guts to redesign all their regular movements like this it would certainly raise brown in the watchmaking community. It is obvious that with the "Chiaroscuro" they have the design ability. Now, will they be able to make a "Hebdomadaire" with this sort of movement design without outrageously increasing its price? Would they even consider such a move? Would you consider a "Hebdomadaire" if they would?


More 8-days manuals...

No need to deny it. I am a fan of 8-days manuals with power reserve.

With the introduction of their new 13RO calibre Blancpain have entered the arena with stile. This movement is a very beautiful pice of watchmaking. Under the pretense of renovating what was a sinking ship the Swatch Group have put more "punch" behind Blancpain. Thus, the movement is finished in a much superior fashion to what we have been accustomed to by Blancpain so far.

Particularly interesting is the enlarged Titanium balance wheel. This has been developed and is said to achieve better precision (I will put a hold on that until it has been proven on the street and not in a lab). In any case, it looks cool and adds a touch of modern to what is a classic movement design/finish.

What is unfortunate is the case/face it was put in. It has the sex-appeal of a Camel.

Calibre 13RO...

A good reason NOT to buy a Rolex

A while ago somebody made me aware of a "little" problem they had with Rolex. He came to tell me that Rolex did not feel obliged to service his Rolex. Why? Because it was more than 25 years old... Could not believe my ears. I Asked him for proof and got it. (If you read Spanish then take a look.)

If you don't, the letter addressed to the owner comes to say:

- That by law, Rolex is only required to have and guarantee supplies for watches that are up to 25 years old.
- His Rolex was 36 years old and even if it where to be serviced they would not give it an International Warranty.
- Even though they serviced the watch this time, they would not be able to service it any further due to a lack of parts.
- In the future they would gladly refer him to some "other" repair service that would repair the watch.

In other words; If your dad's Rolex is over 25 years and needs service, you are screwed brother! Rolex don't give a dam...

Don't think that the Rolex in question is something special. It's a very common Oyster date, nothing fancy. Mind you, Rolex has been going without something fancy for over half a century.

Can't believe that I have been praising the Rolex after sales service.


Many, including me, where very surprised at Eterna's beast. The Indicator by Porsche Design is surely a piece of machinery that turned more than a few heads. What is particularly interesting is the digital approach to display information with mechanical means. This could be the only watch that I forgive its excessive size (almost 50 mm!!!). Even though it is way too large for me (and most other humans) I respect it because the movement actually "fils" the case. It is not large because it is fashionable, it is large because it can't be small. That, I respect. Large with no purpose and for the sake of being fashionable, I don't.

It has been several years since this piece by Porsche Design (Eterna) and the design components have not trickled down to cheaper more affordable models. Very unfortunate, since I consider the other watches of Porsche Design to be very cheesy. Except for the P011 which is a replica of the first PVD'ed watch in history, there is no other watch in their current lineup that remotely says "buy me". When IWC made the PDs I remember the Ocean 2000 diver model or the Ocean with a compass, probably their most appealing watch. It would be nice to see exact replicas of these as well.

Porsche Design...

Panerai p.2002

I was never a big fan of Panerai...

... until the p.2002 came along. Amongst the diehard Paneristi there are those who will only go for "pre-Vendome" models (those before the Richemont Group bought Panerai). Personally I think that all the pre-Vendome, except for the original Radiomir California and those models fitted with Rolex movements (for collecting purposes that is), are all crap. Yep, a big ol' bunch of horse manure. Embellished by ill-placed nostalgia... "Everything used to be better back when... blabla..." We all remember our grandmothers lecturing us in a similar way. Not that they are wrong, but don't tell me that making trips by carriage beats coach on a 747!

Today, with the resources that the guys at Panerai have at their disposal (Jaeger, Lange,etc...) they are on their way to becoming not only a fashion statement but quiet nice pieces to own for a serious watchnut. What is interesting is Panerai's evolution from fashion item to a connoisseur watch. Will it succeed? Don't know yet, but with their new p.2002 calibre the road is set to achieve quiet interesting things.

The Radiomir GMT 8-days was the first to have this movement and from the looks of it it will not be the last. If you never owned a manual wind watch, 8-day power reserves are awesome watches.

Here are some computer renderings of the insides. Enjoy.

GMT function:

Zero reset device:

Spring Barrels:


Horological Pornography

I guess this need little comment...

... so, in order to NOT spoil the moment, I will shut my mouth.


Jack's Watch

For all "24" fans out there... the watch that Jack Bauer wears in season 5 is a "Special Ops". Here is the link to their watches.

Special Ops...

Initially the watch he used in the series (at least season 1) was a standard Submariner. The quality of the pictures is so appalling that I refuse to post them here (guys, do something about it!). In spite of being quartz they are cool watches none the less.

p.s. Thanks Park!

HD3 Idalgo "XT-2"

Granted, double straps look vulgar. Am not a fan of double-adjacent faces either, but for some reason I like this... thing. It's confusing, weird and awkward... yet I can't stop looking at it. Have I lost my mind? Thank good this "thing" is out of my wallets range (by about a mile!) or else... no! Stop, wake up!

This is one of those "projects" that have been in the works for some time. Personally I did not think it would ever see the light. Soon 33 people will hold one of these Idalgos (in four different metals), most of them already have an owner. It's not a Tourbillon (thanks for that!) and it is ETA based. So, why is it so outrageously expensive? Well, there is about 2,000 hours of work behind the Idalgo's XT-2 movement. You don't want to ask what Swiss engineers charge per hour... believe me, you don't.

I would have loved to see this design on one dial instead of two, and at a more affordable price. It sure would move away from the same'ol boring stuff.

PRICE Switzerland: 120,000 CHF.


SINNful whippin...

As expected, the U2 destroys the competition. You got to love the "krauts" for these benchmark test. Here the guys at "UHREN Magazin" test 9 extreme divers (up to 2,000 €) to the last consequence. Personally I believe that the U2 is the best automatic diver out there at any price, putting it in that category is a bit unfair to say the least. It outclasses the competition by a landslide. The only diver superior to the U2 is their own SINN UX, but since it is a quartz many purists would not wear it out on the dry. This makes the U2 more versatile. If you can read German then knock your self out;

UHREN Diver Test...

If you don't you will obviously see that the SINN U2 is the only one to take full marks. What almost rendered me speechless is that they actually had the balls to tell and show a picture of a Breitling that busted. Could not take the pressure he? Being Breitling a big publicity buyer it is very rare that Uhren Magazine would actually show the picture of the exploded glass (KUDOS to Uhren Magazine for that).

UHREN Magazine...


They just could not keep their fingers off it... When it was presented there was ONE Pontos GMT and 500 units where to be produced. Today, there will be TWO Pontos, and 999 of each. For once that Maurice Lacroix do an attractive watch, they come and FUCK-IT-UP with this move. Why could they not leave it be, make another watch based on that style? Was the first Pontos a mistake that they just can't repeat? Their in-house manual chrono movement is a nice and refreshing novelty for ML, it would be great to have the Pontos aesthetics on that. Well, there is always Basel 2007...

I still believe that the Pontos is the first interesting thing out of the Maurice Lacroix house. The design certainly showed some promise.

Question: If the rest of the watches you make are horrible and dealers demand more of the Pontos (such demand that they make you quadruple the original production)... Why not stop making the other shit, fire the previous design team and make the Pontos designer redesign ALL your watches? Wouldn't that be common sense? Ohhh... wait, forgot this is the watch industry.

Maurice Lacroix...

20.000 Leagues Under the Sea

Yes, they are here. At last the veil has been lifted. After much speculation Patek's Nautilus is being presented to the press this morning. Four major pieces; a small, a Jumbo, a Moon-phase and a Chrono. A little for everybody. The main changes to the case are minimal and impossible to discern at a distance. Personally I believe that they are an improvement. Subtle enough not to offend the passionate classic Nautilus loves and interesting enough for those that sunned the Nautilus because of its protruding hinges. Classicists will still be drawn to the new and slightly revised Nautilus while other might actually consider it as a probable future purchase.

Here are my very personal thoughts about each Nautty (for what it's worth...);

The 5711: The Jumbo. I am ecstatic that the original Nautty is back, and in steel! The only but here is the price. Once, the older 3710 model with a power reserve used to be about a third cheaper than a Royal Oak Jumbo (hence its success and long waiting list). The new 5711 is about the same price as its Royal Oak counterpart. This just smells like the price has been set for marketing reasons rather than cost of production. In other words, you are not getting what you are paying for. Will it be as successful? Not sure yet... could be... quite possibly. The 5070 is a similar story, with a "Nouvelle Lemania" at around 30K... is that good value for money? Evidently not, yet there is a much higher demand for this product than there is supply. Almost forgot. Yes, it is waterproof to 120 meters. Love you for that!

The 5712: The 3712 being a phenomenon it would have been a terrible mistake to NOT do a 5712. Probably my favorite of the new lineup. Again, why is this model 2K more expensive than the 3712? The only difference with the previous model are the rounded sides. Does that make the watch 2k more expensive? You tell me. The other two versions, white and red gold, should have been fitted with a rubber band and not leather. Guys, the Nautty is a sports watch remember?!?

The 5800: The small model. Completely inconsequential, like all previous mid and small Nautiluses they will be the only ones that are stuck in the windows at your local jeweler. Plus it is almost the same price as the Jumbo. Yeah, like that is going to sell...

The 5980: The chrono. Very disappointed. A lesser version of the 5960. What they have not lessened is the price though. At a whopping 26,300 € this is no bargain. Without the Annual Calendar I don't think that this Nautty is worthy of the "59" in its number like the 5960 and 5970. The date at 3 o'clock brakes the harmony of the dial. The "mono-compax" disposition with a 30 minute hand instead of a 60 minutes makes it difficult and impractical to read. What I do like about this piece are the pushers, they disappear harmoniously in the case of the watch.

As a whole I believe that the change has been positive. Now, if it's Patek's goal to put the Nautilus in the limelight than there must be plenty of these available for Jewelers to offer to the public. Although, at these prices the Nautilus has lost some of its competitiveness if compared to its first rival, AP's Royal Oak. The 15202, 26120 and 25860. offer all similar functions yet are under Patek's prices. Up until now this was not the case.

Patek Philippe...

NAUTILUS "5980 Chrono"

Very disappointing. Nothing really new, expensive and not very pretty. This chrono is essentially a 5960 without the Annual Calendar. However, it's a Patek and it will sell. If it does not, then deliveries will be slowed in order to keep demand high (you know the drill). Desire is the name of the game.

For 26,300 € I would expect a little more. Like the Annual Calendar maybe?

Patek Philippe...